jradoji

chitr:Zardozi.gif
jradoji ka kaam resham par

jradoji faarasi evam urdu: زaaرaaدaaوaaزaaی) ka kaam ek prakaar ki kadhaai hoti h ai, jo Bhaarat evam Pakistan mein prachalit hai. yeh kaam Bhaarat mein rigaved ke samay se prachalit hai. yeh mugal baadshah Akbar ke samay mein aur samruddh hui, kintu baad mein raajasi sanrakshan ke abhaav aur audyogikran ke daur mein iska patan hone laga. vartamaan mein yeh fir ubhari hai. ab yeh Bhaarat ke Lucknow, Bhopal aur chennai aadi kai shaharon mein ho rahi hai.[1]

jradoji ka naam faasari se aaya hai, jiska arth hai: sone ki kadhaai.

anukram

banaaras mein

banaarasi reshami saadiyon par jri ka kaam

yeh kaam banaaras mein bhi prachalit ho raha hai. jaradoji ka kaam banaaras ki apni alag parampara naheen hai parantu ab logon ne banaarasi saadi mein bhi jaradoji ka kaam karna praarambh kar diya hai. banaaras mein banaarasi saadi tatha vasr ke alaava anya saadi, soot ke kapde, dres maiteeriyls, parda, kushan kavar aadi mein bhi adhikaanshat: muslim sampradaaya ke log (kalaakaar) lage hue hain. jaradoji bahut hi kalaatmak tatha dhairya ka kaam hai. iski baareeki ko samajhne ke liye yeh jaruri hai ki ise kam umr se hi seekha jaae. falat: jaradoji ke peshe mein bachche tatha auratein bhi lage hue hain.

sanlagn upakaran

charkhe ka sahaara taag ko sahi karne tatha binne ki prakriya sugam banaane ke liye kiya jaata hai. jab tak taaga (dhaaga) karaghe ke paas binne ke liye na aa jaae. taag ke alaava jadi ke taag ko bhi charakhe par hi theek kiya jaata hai. paramparaagat charkha lakdi tatha baans ki fadi (patti) se bana hota hai. haalaanki aajkal saaikil ka pichhla chakka, chen, tatha geeyar ko bhi charakha banaakar usase charakhe ka kaam liya jaata hai. iske sambandh mein binkaron ka kehna hai ki ek to saaikil wala majaboot hota hai jisse yeh jyaada din tak chalta hai, doosra, choonki iska pahiya chen tatha geeyar se laga hota hai at: yeh lakdi vaale charkha ki tulana mein jyaada gatisheel ho jaata hai jisse kam samay mein jyaada se jyaada taag lapeta jaata hai.

nakali jari

pehle shuddh sone tatha chaandi se jari banaaya jaata tha. at: jab saadi pahanane laayak naheen bhi rahati thi to jalaakar khaasi maatra mein sona ya chaandi ikattha kar liya jaata tha. yakaayak 1977 mein chaandi ke bhaav bahut badh gaya. badhe bhaav ke chaandi se jari banaana bada hi mahanga saabit hua. iska nateeja yeh nikla ki saadi ki keemat kaafi badh gayi. badhi hui keemat mein log saadi khareedne se bachane lage. aisa lagne laga maano ab banaarasi binkaari lagbhag samaapt hi ho jaaegi.

sanyog se lagbhag usi samay Gujarat ke shahar soorat mein nakali jari ka nirmaan praarambh ho gaya tha. nakali jari dekhne mein bilkul asli jari ke jaisi hi thi parantu iski keemat asli jadi ke dasvein hisse se bhi kam padti thi. kuchh binkaron ne is nakali jari ka prayog kiya. prayog safal raha aur dheere dheere asli jari ka sthaan nakali jari ne le liya. saadi ki maang pun: baajaar mein joro ke saath badh gayi. bunakar biraadari fir apni dhraki aur pausaar ke aavaaj mein mast hokarabinkari ke vyavasaaya mein sanlagn ho gaye.

ve nakali jari ke kaarya mein itna kho gaye ki dheere-dheere aisa lagne laga ki asli jari ka naamo-nishaan mit jaaega. isi beech 1988-1989 ke lagbhag kuchh logon (bhaarateeya rais) tatha videshiyon ne banaarasi saadi tatha vasr mein asli jari lagavaane ki ichha vyakt ki. do teen parivaar banaaras mein bhi abhi bhi bacha tha, jisne fir se asli chaandi tatha sone ka jari banaaya. aur is tarah se maang ki poorti ki gayi.

aajkal kuchh binkar pehle diye gaye aaairdar ke vasron tatha saadiyon mein asli jari lagaate hain. haalaanki asli jari ka prayog bahut hi kam hota hai, fir bhi parampara jeevit hai.

sandarbh

baahari sootr

yeh saaaincha abhi bana naheen hai. iske liye en:Template:Embroidery ka sandarbh lein. sanpaadan karein